36 replies to this topic

[Bugsjuice]

About 11months ago we bought my other half a road bike for riding to work and for triathlons / training / cross training. We paid $1,300 for a bike that was reduced from at $1,800 with full shimano stuff etc and pretty spiffy.

Since then we have had nothing but problems with it;
1. Bought the bike off the floor from "experienced staff " - frame was the wrong size
2. Problem with crank housing
3. Faulty trip computer
4. Gear changer/brake mechanism broke
5. Chain and rear chain cluster needed replacing in under 9months
6. Gear cables continually loose
7. Worn bearings in crank housing (over and above #2)

And the last straw, and dare I say the "killer" problem,
8. The @#$% pedal crank SNAPPED OFF in the middle of @#$% Sydney Peak Hour Traffic!

Needless to say - I AM FURIOUS!

Now, because I have absolutely no idea about bikes, their parts and how long things should last I was after some guidance from any other cyclists out there as to what I should be expecting? The bike has probably travelled approx 5,000km in just under 12 months and has been serviced at least 3 times. All of the above have happened within the same time period. Is it common for these things to happen this soon?

The place of purchase has been absolutely terrible to deal with. I don't know what I should do from here... is this a Consumer Claims arguement (groan...)



Bugs

Edited by Bugsjuice, 16 July 2008 - 09:13 PM.

[Fitnhealthy]

Sorry I can't help, but am interested in the replies as I am just looking at buying a bike for similar use, but don't want to spend that much...

I hope you get it sorted as there is nothing worse then constant problems especially faults in peak hour traffic! (I can't think of anything worse )

[MF]

I bought a $4000 bike about 6 months ago and have had horrible service since.

My bike, after service, came back FAR worse condition. Brakes were loose, gears were very far off. They suggested the gears would settle. I rode up My Kembla and the chain slipped off the top cog and jammed next to the wheel. Luckily I didn't come off. Obviously a poor adjustment of gears-at best. Not even an apology from this very big bike shop. Also lucky I new someone to drive me the 20km home.

I have since taken it to a small, local bike shop who have spruced it up nicely and now I am a very happy rider. I will NEVER deal with the inner Sydney based leading bike store again. $4000 for a bike may not be a huge purchase for them, but it cost more than 4 times the price of my car!!

MF

[slowmo]

Bugsjuice, on Jul 16 2008, 09:11 PM, said:

About 11months ago we bought my other half a road bike for riding to work and for triathlons / training / cross training. We paid $1,300 for a bike that was reduced from at $1,800 with full shimano stuff etc and pretty spiffy.

Since then we have had nothing but problems with it;
1. Bought the bike off the floor from "experienced staff " - frame was the wrong size
2. Problem with crank housing
3. Faulty trip computer
4. Gear changer/brake mechanism broke
5. Chain and rear chain cluster needed replacing in under 9months
6. Gear cables continually loose
7. Worn bearings in crank housing (over and above #2)

And the last straw, and dare I say the "killer" problem,
8. The @#$% pedal crank SNAPPED OFF in the middle of @#$% Sydney Peak Hour Traffic!

Hi Bugsjuice

I'm not an expert cyclist by any means but I've been riding on and off for many years, have had a few bikes, done lots of my own servicing etc.

Prob #1 is really bad - a decent bike shop will match you to a suitable frame and then tweak the fit for you e.g. saddle position, handlebar position, pos of shoes on pedals - for my most recent bike the staff spent about an hour with me on this stuff and I was spending less than $1000 !

Some of the other problems sound like dubious componentry, but of course I don't know what sort of conditions you've been riding in. I've never replaced a chain or cluster anywhere near that soon - although I probably err on the side of getting my money's worth The bike computer is not a big deal, but the crank snapping ! When you say snapped do you mean that the actual crank arm broke ? Or did the crank come away from the bottom bracket ? Either way - I've never had that happen.

If I were you I'd be expecting copious apologies and either substantial free service or a replacement bike. If not, the CTTT sounds like a good idea.

Good luck

slowmo

[JeffP]

Hey BugsJuice,

Yep I think you've got a lemon and a shonky shop. Might be worthwhile skipping the shop and trying to have a chat with the distributor.

I was sold and fitted to a cheaper ($1100, but still expensive for my budget) mtn bike from the shop that used to sponsor local Adventure Racing (sadly now closed). They were great and outside of failing spokes (which the manufacturer honoured and completely replaced) have had little trouble. I have however come across a shop who left a one of the rear axle steel balls out from the bearing race after a service. The only reason I went to them was because it was one of the early official services and I didn't want to drive 80km each way to the original store. They didn't care when I called and complained, so I've never said a good word about them since and only use them for warranty repairs. pm me and I'll happily share the shop name. Like MF I have a small local shop do the work now and am VERY happy. Because they are small they actually give a crap about quality work and complaints.

Good luck

[TynoMite]

Fitnhealthy, on Jul 16 2008, 09:24 PM, said:

Sorry I can't help, but am interested in the replies as I am just looking at buying a bike for similar use, but don't want to spend that much...

FnH - I went the "entry level" option when I got my bike - the bike cost was $950 - with pedals, shoes, helmet etc it was a $1250 package.
That was in April.
If I could have my time over again, I would have paid double for the better bike.
(If you're around 6ft 1, I'll sell you a slightly used Orbea Enol for only $750 )
If you're going to use the bike for Tris or long rides, spend the extra cash if you can.
The cheapest shop-based road bike I saw was about $750 for an Apollo Volare.
I think you can get a Trek 1.2 on special for around $800

[Willo 75]

Bugsjuice, on Jul 16 2008, 09:11 PM, said:

About 11months ago we bought my other half a road bike for riding to work and for triathlons / training / cross training. We paid $1,300 for a bike that was reduced from at $1,800 with full shimano stuff etc and pretty spiffy.

Since then we have had nothing but problems with it;
1. Bought the bike off the floor from "experienced staff " - frame was the wrong size
2. Problem with crank housing
3. Faulty trip computer
4. Gear changer/brake mechanism broke
5. Chain and rear chain cluster needed replacing in under 9months
6. Gear cables continually loose
7. Worn bearings in crank housing (over and above #2)

And the last straw, and dare I say the "killer" problem,
8. The @#$% pedal crank SNAPPED OFF in the middle of @#$% Sydney Peak Hour Traffic!

Needless to say - I AM FURIOUS!

Now, because I have absolutely no idea about bikes, their parts and how long things should last I was after some guidance from any other cyclists out there as to what I should be expecting? The bike has probably travelled approx 5,000km in just under 12 months and has been serviced at least 3 times. All of the above have happened within the same time period. Is it common for these things to happen this soon?

The place of purchase has been absolutely terrible to deal with. I don't know what I should do from here... is this a Consumer Claims arguement (groan...)



Bugs

Bugs,

What brand and model bike is it? And what level Shimano Groupset is on the bike?

Cheers

Willo

[wombatoutofhell]

This sounds pretty ordinary to me. I'll be looking at a bike myself probably next year and hope to avoid this kind of thing. Like Willo I'd like to know what make and model bike.
My current ride is a 1984 Malvern Star LA84. I bought it of Ebay for $56.00. It's been well looked after and rides very smoothly. I've replaced the pedals (originals were fine but cheap plastic rubish) and the seat (original was horrible). I've only done a few hundred km on it and apart from the new seat not being right for me I've had no problems.

Edited by wombatoutofhell, 16 July 2008 - 09:57 PM.

[rfcrunner]

Bugsjuice, on Jul 16 2008, 06:11 AM, said:

1. Bought the bike off the floor from "experienced staff " - frame was the wrong size
2. Problem with crank housing
3. Faulty trip computer
4. Gear changer/brake mechanism broke
5. Chain and rear chain cluster needed replacing in under 9months
6. Gear cables continually loose
7. Worn bearings in crank housing (over and above #2)

And the last straw, and dare I say the "killer" problem,
8. The @#$% pedal crank SNAPPED OFF in the middle of @#$% Sydney Peak Hour Traffic!

Needless to say - I AM FURIOUS!

Not surprised you are angry.

1. Nearly had the same problem, picked a bike during the week, went back at the weekend and the staff member said, "that frame's to small for you". Good job he was around that day. It was the last one in the sale so maybe trying to get rid. No advise about this unless they are willing to trade it in for a new one??
2. Should demand it be replaced free of charge.
3. See 2.
4. See 2.
5. Not uncommon, when I first started it was around every 6 months. And if the chain streches then it's best to replace both cluster and chain. It depends on your gear changing habits and cadence. My recent service didn't require a change as my cycling has improved so the chain hasn't streched as much.
6. Should be easy for your LBS (local bike shop) to fix.
7. See 2.
8. Hit the shop assistant with said broken crank and then see item 2!

Please name the brand of bike, and what components (shimano or Campag) and the shop, this might just get them into action and let others know where not to go for a bike. If no luck phone the bike rep in Australia and tell them your problem and see if that leads anywhere.

One last thing, it will take a while to find a bike shop that has good machanics and service. Shop around if you don't like one place try another until you are happy. Then build a repore with that shop and you should be sweet.

Good luck.

[slowmo]

JeffP, on Jul 16 2008, 09:45 PM, said:

Like MF I have a small local shop do the work now and am VERY happy. Because they are small they actually give a crap about quality work and complaints.

I couldn't agree more... I deal with a small-medium suburban shop (Bates Bikes in Hurstville) and they have been consistently good, not only when I've been spending money but also when I've just wandered in to ask questions.

slowmo

[Ewoksta]

Hey Bugs,

I have just recently bought a triathlon/Time trial bike from a small bike shop in Glebe. Cannot fault these guys for service and honesty. I had done my research on what sort of groupset I wanted and the type of bike I was after. They fitted me with a bike that is my absolute dream bike. I had been eyeing one off in a shop here on the coast but on sale they wanted $2,000- this was before the pedals and shoes. Wouldn't budge on that price. Same bike at the shop in Glebe $1,850- with shoes & peddles.

PM me and I will give you the details of the shop. Everything they have done for me has been spot on and I can't recommend them enough.

If you are going to be riding big K's on your bike I would guess you would need Shimano 105 groupset as a minimum. Anything less than that and IMHO you will have to replace/fix in 12 months.

Cheers
Andrew

[kb]

Ewoksta

I think I know the shop you are talking about. I have also heard that they are excellent.

wt

[TallGeoff]

I would also highly recommend Inner City cycles in Glebe. They spent ages making sure my wife was comfortable on her tri bike, and have been a pleasure to deal with.
On bikes in general-Giant, as the largest maufacturer in the world, get a great price for components. In my opinion they are the best value for money, especially if you can find one on sale.

TallGeoff

[Tim 2]

My current bike is fantastic (although expensive).
My first road bike was in a similar price range to yours. I too had bearing problems first crank bearings and later wheel bearings.
My theory is that a buyer can see the frame and external groupset components when they buy the bike but bearings are invisible and therefore lesser quality bearings will not change the buyers decision but will make money for the shop.
Needing to replace a chain is a common occurance as it stretches with use and will cause excessive wear on rear cluster and chain rings if not replaced. Replacing chain at 5-8000ks is probably reasonable but the rear cluster shouldn't need to be replaced unless inferior quality to begin with. (which group set tiagra, 105???)
I too had problems with dodgy service from the selling shop (which largely promoted itself on price)and rapidly moved on to another shop which was more than double the price for a service but worth every cent.

All the best
Tim

[Tim 2]

TallGeoff, on Jul 16 2008, 06:32 PM, said:

I would also highly recommend Inner City cycles in Glebe. They spent ages making sure my wife was comfortable on her tri bike, and have been a pleasure to deal with.
On bikes in general-Giant, as the largest maufacturer in the world, get a great price for components. In my opinion they are the best value for money, especially if you can find one on sale.

TallGeoff

I know some people who have had problems with giant frames breaking (although many others who say they're great). Frames usually have a lifetime warranty and are replaced as long as they haven't been involved in a crash.

Tim

[Nickelass]

As an experienced cyclist and bike mechanic, it sounds like your bike was not assembled correctly.

Regardless of what components are on the bike, if its not put together correctly, it can easily lead to the sort of problems you experienced.

It sounds like the root cause of the problems may be the bottom bracket (crank housing). If it is not installed/adjusted correctly, this will lead to excessive chain and gear wear, put pressure on the gear changer, cabled, etc. It can even lead to a broken pedals if the alignment is out or if the crank was not attached properly.

Another - more severe possibility is that the frame is out of alignment - you should get this checked.

5,000 km is not excessive for 12 months. Depending on maintenance, etc your gear-set should last up to 10,000 km or so (less if you're doing mountain biking, or off-road cycling).

From the sounds of things, the bike shop doesn't have a good mechanic (often they use younger/inexperienced staff).

I suggest changing shop/mechanics to somebody that knows what they're doing. Get somebody experienced to give the bike a complete look over and service - they should be able to fix the problems with the bike fairly easily, especially if you tell them the history (make sure you talk to the mechanic in person).

[bg851]

Bugsjuice, on Jul 16 2008, 09:11 PM, said:

About 11months ago we bought my other half a road bike for riding to work and for triathlons / training / cross training. We paid $1,300 for a bike that was reduced from at $1,800 with full shimano stuff etc and pretty spiffy.

Since then we have had nothing but problems with it;
1. Bought the bike off the floor from "experienced staff " - frame was the wrong size
2. Problem with crank housing
3. Faulty trip computer
4. Gear changer/brake mechanism broke
5. Chain and rear chain cluster needed replacing in under 9months
6. Gear cables continually loose
7. Worn bearings in crank housing (over and above #2)

And the last straw, and dare I say the "killer" problem,
8. The @#$% pedal crank SNAPPED OFF in the middle of @#$% Sydney Peak Hour Traffic!

Needless to say - I AM FURIOUS!

Now, because I have absolutely no idea about bikes, their parts and how long things should last I was after some guidance from any other cyclists out there as to what I should be expecting? The bike has probably travelled approx 5,000km in just under 12 months and has been serviced at least 3 times. All of the above have happened within the same time period. Is it common for these things to happen this soon?

The place of purchase has been absolutely terrible to deal with. I don't know what I should do from here... is this a Consumer Claims arguement (groan...)



Bugs

Sorry but there are usually 2 sides to every story??
Firstly, $1300 is not much for a new bike? It must have probably sora or tiagra groupset on it?
You get what you pay for? Anyone who is fairly heavy or powerful would pretty much wear out that sort of level groupset pretty quickly? Basically, the more you spend, the longer stuff will last and the stronger it will be? Generally 5000km is about it for a chain, but it depends on a lot of things? How often to yuo degrease it, lube it, how often is the bike ridden in the rain, do you ride in the 53/21or 23 or 25 a lot? How oftern do you go over and check nuts and bolts being tight? Riding on sydney's roads, there pretty shit, full of holes, especially in Sydneys east where yuor from, stuff vibrates loose! Has the bike been crashed? Does it get looked after? Does it get put in the the back of cars?

[Simmo]

I'll never buy a Giant, in the same way that I'll never buy a Holden or Ford. They may be good bikes, but I want to be different. In Perth the majority of bike shops sell Giant as their main brand, and about 2-3 bikes out of 5 on the paths and roads are Giant. Someone should report them to the ACCC! There are plenty of other great brands out there, with a good range of models across the price range. For the record, my mountain bike is a GT ($800 new), and my road bike is a Bianchi ($2500 new). Both were purchased from different, non-chain bike shops, and I've had great service, with no mechanical problems from either bike.

[Simmo]

Tigra and Sora are good groupsets for recreational/commuting bikes within that price range, and there's nothing wrong with that price range for your first bike! If Bugsjuice's bike was originally priced at $1800 it would have had the 105 groupset - at least that's what most reputable brands would have used for that price range.

To answer Bugsjuice's original question, certainly he should have got better treatment from the shop, and without knowing the brand, he probably did get a true lemon, just like some new car buyers' stories that I've heard.

[TynoMite]

Simmo, on Jul 17 2008, 03:53 PM, said:

Someone should report them to the ACCC!

Just because they're a Giant organisation doesn't mean they don't make some nice bikes though.

[Fitnhealthy]

TynoMite, on Jul 16 2008, 09:21 PM, said:

FnH - I went the "entry level" option when I got my bike - the bike cost was $950 - with pedals, shoes, helmet etc it was a $1250 package.
That was in April.
If I could have my time over again, I would have paid double for the better bike.
(If you're around 6ft 1, I'll sell you a slightly used Orbea Enol for only $750 )
If you're going to use the bike for Tris or long rides, spend the extra cash if you can.
The cheapest shop-based road bike I saw was about $750 for an Apollo Volare.
I think you can get a Trek 1.2 on special for around $800

Thanks Tynomite, but I was actually looking at the cheap Trek 7.0 bikes at the moment just for commuting and if I get into it I was thinking I'd spend more money then...I just don't want to spend too much if I don't enjoy it and it starts to collect dust...I haven't ridden for years...I am looking at around the $500 mark which I know isn't much...

Quote

This sounds pretty ordinary to me. I'll be looking at a bike myself probably next year and hope to avoid this kind of thing. Like Willo I'd like to know what make and model bike.
My current ride is a 1984 Malvern Star LA84. I bought it of Ebay for $56.00. It's been well looked after and rides very smoothly. I've replaced the pedals (originals were fine but cheap plastic rubish) and the seat (original was horrible). I've only done a few hundred km on it and apart from the new seat not being right for me I've had no problems.

I noticed WOOH bought a cheap bike and his was fine...Anyone have any advice on the cheaper end of bikes and especially where to buy in Adelaide?

[TynoMite]

Fitnhealthy, on Jul 17 2008, 04:12 PM, said:

at the moment just for commuting and if I get into it I was thinking I'd spend more money then...I just don't want to spend too much if I don't enjoy it and it starts to collect dust...I haven't ridden for years...I am looking at around the $500 mark which I know isn't much...

I know the feeling, it took me months to convince myself to get the road bike.
You could probably pick up a decent Hybrid for under $500, if you're primary use is commuting.

[rohan]

slightly off topic, but i notice a lot of unnecessary contempt for the lower ranges of shimano products.

i won't say they are brilliant, but don't assume because of price that they won't last well. maybe i am a smoothish gear changer?, but i have over 30,000 km on my current chain and cluster. (which obviously means i will have to swap the two out together when one goes).
my driveline is a mishmash of shimano 'cheap' products. nothing of higher spec than tiagra, or shimano 600 (which came long before tiagra). parts of my driveline are 20 years old.

i have used this at ironman and done adequately and done a 2;26 half ironman bike split, so i must be shoving a reasonable amount of power through the drivetrain... at least from an average participant point of view.

[chilliman]

Fitnhealthy, on Jul 17 2008, 04:12 PM, said:

Anyone have any advice on the cheaper end of bikes and especially where to buy in Adelaide?

I don't know about cheap bikes, but I often frequent the bike shop in Mt Barker when I'm in SA and the experience has always been more than positive for whatever I need.

rohan, on Jul 17 2008, 04:28 PM, said:

slightly off topic, but i notice a lot of unnecessary contempt for the lower ranges of shimano products.

i won't say they are brilliant, but don't assume because of price that they won't last well.

Couldn't agree more rohan, it does help though if you know how to look after them yourself, and knowing how to tweak a derailleur. can save all sorts of related wear/tear/crunching/scraping/frustrating/grinding problems. Even if it's still under warranty, a little tweak here and there is nice to be able to do your self without having to head back to the shop each time.

And Lube, lube, lube people.

I have a cheaper Alivo gear set (MTB) that has lasted me almost 20years on an old bike that is still going strong after many forest bashings.
Not a huge difference than with a more expensive Deore set on another bike.
Clean and lube after each dirt ride though, finely adjust/test before a big ride.

[bg851]

rohan, on Jul 17 2008, 04:28 PM, said:

slightly off topic, but i notice a lot of unnecessary contempt for the lower ranges of shimano products.

i won't say they are brilliant, but don't assume because of price that they won't last well. maybe i am a smoothish gear changer?, but i have over 30,000 km on my current chain and cluster. (which obviously means i will have to swap the two out together when one goes).
my driveline is a mishmash of shimano 'cheap' products. nothing of higher spec than tiagra, or shimano 600 (which came long before tiagra). parts of my driveline are 20 years old.

i have used this at ironman and done adequately and done a 2;26 half ironman bike split, so i must be shoving a reasonable amount of power through the drivetrain... at least from an average participant point of view.

Well I guess well have to agree to disagree then! The experience I have with cheaper SHimano road and mtb stuff is its rubbish. SImple things like shifters shitting themselves a lot quicker, derailuer pivots getting real sloppy a lot quicker etc. Its not cause of there price, its simply there made out of less quality metals!!
I thought SHimano 600 was the old Ultegra??? Correct me if I'm wrong??
I guess I am more speaking from a MTB point of view, where lesser quality parts tend to show up quicker, but I have seen the same thing with the road stuff, and it usually is with bigger riders?
From a shops point of view but, you see many people coming in with broken bits, worn bits, who have no idea on maintenance and expect things to last forever.......and its funny to see on a runners website people thinking $1300 is a lot of money to spend on a bike!!!!

[rohan]

bg851, on Jul 17 2008, 09:49 AM, said:

Well I guess well have to agree to disagree then! The experience I have with cheaper SHimano road and mtb stuff is its rubbish. SImple things like shifters shitting themselves a lot quicker, derailuer pivots getting real sloppy a lot quicker etc. Its not cause of there price, its simply there made out of less quality metals!!
I thought SHimano 600 was the old Ultegra??? Correct me if I'm wrong??
I guess I am more speaking from a MTB point of view, where lesser quality parts tend to show up quicker, but I have seen the same thing with the road stuff, and it usually is with bigger riders?
From a shops point of view but, you see many people coming in with broken bits, worn bits, who have no idea on maintenance and expect things to last forever.......and its funny to see on a runners website people thinking $1300 is a lot of money to spend on a bike!!!!

yep the cheaper stuff probably gets sloppy more quickly, but there's something going amiss in the example of the original poster. the stuff should last a whole lot longer than that. $1300-, while not a lot to spend on a bike, should provide more use.

i agree with chilliman, being able to tweak stuff is always useful in prolonging its life, as is understanding your machine. eg. some people continually ride with poor chainlines. (asking the chain to bend sideways to the max to accomodate their gear selection eg. small chain ring to smallest cog on the cluster, rather than going big chain ring with a mid range rear cog, which achieves a straighter chainline, but similar gearing) others have no idea about trimming the front derailleur so it doesn't grind. others protract the change from small chainring to big chainring and wonder why their gear cables keep on stretching. some people like to maintain full crank pressure when changing gears while standing up and going up hill instead of just easing off a bit as the change happens.

yes shimano 600 was the old ultegra level stuff.

re size of rider and rate of eating parts. it's got to have an effect, but for the record i am 75kg, so not an ultralight.

[Mick]

I would _LOVE_ to be able to get even 3,000 out of a chain/cassette set. MTB with XT components (indexed 3x9), best chain they will sell me, Pedros dry lube, lube no less than every 100km, ease off pedal pressure to change gears, never use opposite ratios (ie only down to 4th on big, only up to 5th on middle), try to keep cadence up, mostly ride seated, < 75kg, ride 80/20 road/dirt, clean with degreaser/toothe brush/hose after a few dirt rides or if looks like it needs it.

I've never had much success doing my own adjustments, and when I take it to the shop when its not as sweet as it should be, they measure the chain, say its too stretched, and say I should get a new chain AND cassette. I tell them I've only done like 1500-2000 on the cassette, go against their advice and get the chain only (which normally is fine after a couple of rides), and then 1500-2000 later I'm in for both chain/cassette (and possibly a front ring as well).

So it gets a bit expensive, one of the reasons I do 80% on the road and try to avoid riding in the rain.

Apart from learning how to do my own adjustments (I seem to even stuff up using the barrel adjusters), what else can I do ?

PS Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread, but it seems we have digressed ...

[Mark Heydon]

Got to agree about not bagging out the cheaper components. My last bike was an entry level Giant MTB which was used for commuting. I would have got 15,000k out of it with no parts breaking and only replaced the rear cassette once along with the chain (plus 100's of brake pads). It is now ridden infrequently by the person I gave it to, but it is still going.
Also have to pull people up on bikes being "only" for commuting. Commuting bikes suffer more abuse than most. The frequent stop/start stretches the chain and wears the rear cassette, riding is in all kinds of weather on all types of terrain, often carrying loads.

With respect to derailleur/cassetts problems, get a Rohloff hub! I've done 10,000k on mine and have had zero problems with it. Had its oil drained and replaced at 5,000k because that is what is recommended, but had no problems with it and noticed no difference post-service, so it was probably unnecessary. And with a permanently straight chainline, I've only replaced the chain once (twice if you count the faulty one which snapped on about the third ride), turning the rear cog over at the same time.

Oh, and the original poster - sounds like a lemon.

[Bugsjuice]

Thanks to everyone for their comments - I really appreciate all the advice and tips on where to go and what I should be looking for. Initially I had decided not to name the shop but right now I couldn't give a shit about them; you could say my unreturned phone call from yesterday and today was the straw that broke the camel's back.

STORE: Cell Bikes @ Stanmore.
BIKE: Team Road Bike
GEARSET: Shimano 105 - 20 speed
USE: Riding to and from work, weekend rides and 1 x triathlon (generous average 120km per week)
RIDER: 5'11'' and 73kg
CARE: Washed, cleaned and relubed every month or when excessively dirty, which was not very often, plus 2 scheduled services (3 & 6 month intervals) and harldy ever ridden in the rain (unless it dumped before arrival at destination).

Slowmo - it was the bolt securing the crank arm to the bottom bracket that snapped.

BG - yes there are always 2 sides to every story, but I'm sure as hell on the right side of this one! $1,300 is a lot of money for some people and when the shimano componentry is talked up the way it is on the website - a not-so-savvy consumer (ie me) would think it's a pretty good deal.

That said - lesson learnt. I will NEVER go anywhere near this place again. I'm not even going to bother getting the crank arm fixed by them for fear the bike will come back with yet another problem.

Anyways, now that I know what I "should have been looking fort" I can purchase MY BIKE with confidence... after we save some dosh to replace the heap of crap we currently have.

Nickleass - I see you're in sydney; are you based at a bike shop yourself?
Chiliman - where can I buy bicycle maintenance guide for dummies?

Cheers Everyone - and may your wheels spin free and true (and you seat be well padded)
Bugs

Edited by Bugsjuice, 17 July 2008 - 11:48 PM.

[thomo]

Bugsjuice, on Jul 17 2008, 11:39 PM, said:

Thanks to everyone for their comments - I really appreciate all the advice and tips on where to go and what I should be looking for. Initially I had decided not to name the shop but right now I couldn't give a shit about them; you could say my unreturned phone call from yesterday and today was the straw that broke the camel's back.

STORE: Cell Bikes @ Stanmore.
BIKE: Team Road Bike
GEARSET: Shimano 105 - 20 speed
USE: Riding to and from work, weekend rides and 1 x triathlon (generous average 120km per week)
RIDER: 5'11'' and 73kg
CARE: Washed, cleaned and relubed every month or when excessively dirty, which was not very often, plus 2 scheduled services (3 & 6 month intervals) and harldy ever ridden in the rain (unless it dumped before arrival at destination).

Slowmo - it was the bolt securing the crank arm to the bottom bracket that snapped.

BG - yes there are always 2 sides to every story, but I'm sure as hell on the right side of this one! $1,300 is a lot of money for some people and when the shimano componentry is talked up the way it is on the website - a not-so-savvy consumer (ie me) would think it's a pretty good deal.

That said - lesson learnt. I will NEVER go anywhere near this place again. I'm not even going to bother getting the crank arm fixed by them for fear the bike will come back with yet another problem.

Anyways, now that I know what I "should have been looking fort" I can purchase MY BIKE with confidence... after we save some dosh to replace the heap of crap we currently have.

Nickleass - I see you're in sydney; are you based at a bike shop yourself?
Chiliman - where can I buy bicycle maintenance guide for dummies?

Cheers Everyone - and may your wheels spin free and true (and you seat be well padded)
Bugs

Coolrunner friend Will had the same or similar problem with the crank arm. Happened while he was doing Australian Ironman this year.

His was a Cell Bike also.

105 Shimano shouldn't have any problems.

Wildthing and I have a mutual friend / acquaintance who works/worked there. He is very knowledable and a multi Ironman finisher. I hope he didn't sell you the lemon (bike). PM me if you want his name.

I have quite a few bikes in my stable and I am well over the weights given by various people on topic by 20 kgs!! I have never had the problems you have mentioned. I have 105 to 600 gear on road bike. In mountain bikes I have basic shimano ($500 bike) up to XT /XTR.

Comsumer affairs or Fair Trading, whatever it is currently called will be able to help you. Forms to complete and a small fee involved. On another site that I frequent there is a person who has used this process to get his bike/s & equipment fixed properly. He is a a huge unit and tests his equipment big time. However if the bike is not fit for the purpose bought then he and you are 100% in the right and the bike shop knows it!!!!!!

Good luck

Edited by thomo, 18 July 2008 - 01:58 AM.

[bg851]

Bugsjuice, on Jul 17 2008, 11:39 PM, said:

BG - yes there are always 2 sides to every story, but I'm sure as hell on the right side of this one! $1,300 is a lot of money for some people and when the shimano componentry is talked up the way it is on the website - a not-so-savvy consumer (ie me) would think it's a pretty good deal.

Sorry, you should have said Cell bikes.......I agree with everythign you say!

Again, not being smart or anything, but there not really a proper bike shop? I would pay extra to buy a bike from a proper bike shop, build up a relationship with that shop, it will probably work out cheaper in the long run anyway?? Good luck with it all!

[cjr]

This may be a buit off topic, but here is my rant....

In my experience buying a bike is just like buying a pair of running shoes. If you know exactly what you want and don't expect great service, then go somewhere cheap. If you want decent advice and service then go to a specialist shop and expect to pay a bit more. Soem of the large chainstore bike shops are not much different than buying from K-mart

Either way, the best thing to do is to do some research and know a bit about the various componenets etc before you buy.

The last bike I bough I knew exactly what I wanted, and got a really good price and freebies from a large bike shop with clueless sales people and grumpy workshop staff. I shuddered at some of the things I heard them telling other people in the shop. But I saved a lot of $$$ and got what I wanted.

Just to emphasise the point I took it back for a "free service" a few months later and after collecting it saw no sign that it had even been touched. They got very defensive (and quite aggressive) when I suggested that

Later it developed a problem and they wouldn't even refer it back to the manufacturer as they said it was normal wear and tear (which it wasn't). I then contacted the manufacturer direct (Fuji) who bent over backwards for me and without even seeing it arranged for me to take it to another bike shop where the component was replaced.

It is really worth learning to do your own maintenace and adjustment - it is not rocket science and saves a lot of hassle. Start on an old spare bike so you are not scared of screwing things up. If you can do this before speding a lot on a bike even better - I have seen so many people spend a lot on a bike and then really wish they had bought something else after riding for a while and learning a bit more

Edited by cjr, 18 July 2008 - 04:17 PM.

[chilliman]

cjr, on Jul 18 2008, 04:10 PM, said:

It is really worth learning to do your own maintenace and adjustment - it is not rocket science and saves a lot of hassle. Start on an old spare bike so you are not scared of screwing things up. If you can do this before speding a lot on a bike even better -

So true cjr.
That's how we used to learn when we were kids, before the internet....yadda yadda yadda.

Flipping an old bike onto it's seat and handle bars (no you don't need a roller), and cranking the peddles with your hand and tweaking the adjusters to see what they do is a starting point. There's a bit more too it testing under load etc, but gotta start somewhere.

Edited by chilliman, 18 July 2008 - 04:37 PM.

[Nickelass]

Bugsjuice, on Jul 17 2008, 11:39 PM, said:

Slowmo - it was the bolt securing the crank arm to the bottom bracket that snapped.

Attaching the 'crank arm' incorrectly is a common problem and could be the source of many issues.

Bugsjuice, on Jul 17 2008, 11:39 PM, said:

Nickleass - I see you're in sydney; are you based at a bike shop yourself?

I am based in Sydney and work near St Leonards. I dont work in a bikeshop (and never have), but have a passion for cycling including racing and cycle touring. If you want me to look at the bike and give you my opinion, send me a message and we can meet up.

[Bugsjuice]

bg851, on Jul 18 2008, 12:03 PM, said:

Sorry, you should have said Cell bikes.......I agree with everythign you say!

Again, not being smart or anything, but there not really a proper bike shop? I would pay extra to buy a bike from a proper bike shop, build up a relationship with that shop, it will probably work out cheaper in the long run anyway?? Good luck with it all!

No worries BG - understand where you're coming from and now that you have the whole story you are not alone in your position. I guess I know more now that of course the more money you spend the better the bike et all - hence why I'll save more money that first planned (means doing my first tri on a MTB ) but hey - if it gets me a great bike with no probs then I'll grin and bare it.

[drummo65]

Yesterday
All my troubles seemed so far away
Now it looks as though they're here to stay
Oh, I believe
In yesterday

Suddenly
I'm not half the man I used to be
There's a shadow hanging over me
Oh, yesterday
Came suddenly

Why she
Had to go I don't know
She wouldn't say
I said
Something wrong now I long
For yesterday

Yesterday
Love was such an easy game to play
Now I need a place to hide away
Oh, I believe
In yesterday

Why she
Had to go I don't know
She wouldn't say
I said
Something wrong now I long
For yesterday

Yesterday
Love was such an easy game to play
Now I need a place to hide away
Oh, I believe
In yesterday

[Innes]

I have had a couple of "lemons" in my time...

I come froma cycling background, and recently sold a Ginat TCR roadbike because I had had enough of replacing every bloody component every few months, it seemed there was always something up with it.
I am 6"4 and 83 kg's and even swapped out the back wheel completely for one with one that couple take more load.

My bike beiofre this was a cervelo and it was a superb machine.
Both cost around the 3000 mark.

I guess some bikes are better suited to different riders / sizes etc.
In my opinion Turramurra cyclery is the place to go.
They spend a lot of time ensuring you get the best bike for you and its worth a few extra dollars.
I wish I had gone to them before I brought my Giant.