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A Good Starter Bikewho's got the best cheapie?


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#1 hawkesi

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 08:27 PM

Hey guys,

I'm thinking about getting my first road bike. Having trouble justifying the expense though so i'm looking at getting out of it as cheap as possible.

So my question is, which brand has the best bang for ya buck bottom of the range/starter bike? And what should i look for in a starter bike?

Bro in law thinks i should be looking at something around the $1800 mark which would get me something with a shimano 105 gear set like the Scott Contessa Speedster. That's still a fair bit more than i want to spend though. What's the next step down?

Thanks

Hawkesi

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#2 chocolategu

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 08:46 PM

I wouldn't worry too much about particular brands etc. I have a basic no brand alloy bike with carbon forks/seatpost, with tiagra on the front and 105s on the back and it's been fine for me so far. I have had a number of stacks and it's quite scratched up but other than my poor handling skills it's been a great bike. I think I paid around $1400 although you can get similar specs for a lot cheaper.

I am glad I bought a low spec bike as my first roadie, as I dread to think what i would have done to a carbon frame with all the falls I've had. Hopefully you will have more luck!

I think cell bikes have a good name in terms of quality, and Giant seem to make a lot of lower end bikes.

Happy riding!

#3 wombatoutofhell

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 10:56 PM

Have a look at Shogun as well-they seem to have better componentry on there lower range bikes.

#4 Goughy

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 07:44 AM

Giant Defy range are a good starting point. I have the base Giant OCR3 and it's fine for me. Cost me $300 2nd hand. Probably want to look at the two different methods of shifting in the lower end bikes. Bikes with shimano 2200 or sora components use a thumb shifter for downshifting. From shimano tiagra up they use a finger shifter under the brake lever. It's a matter of taste, but you should probably be able to get a bike with tiagra if that's your preferred method for your price.

But there's tons of brands out there - and you'd get a similar spec'd bike from most (avanti, trek, giant etc).

#5 hawkesi

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 09:36 AM

thanks for the tips guys. I'm just checking out the shimano website to work out what all the different shifter types are. I don't think i need to worry about 105's. The Tiagra would be great but i can't see anything wrong with the 2200 or sora.

Considering i haven't had a road bike before i'm sure i'll think that anything is pretty sick reh! Especially considering i still think that the grip shifters on my 10 year old apollo mountain bike are pretty cool :good:

Edited by hawkesi, 11 March 2009 - 09:36 AM.


#6 James77

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 10:06 AM

 hawkesi, on Mar 11 2009, 09:36 AM, said:

thanks for the tips guys. I'm just checking out the shimano website to work out what all the different shifter types are. I don't think i need to worry about 105's. The Tiagra would be great but i can't see anything wrong with the 2200 or sora.

Considering i haven't had a road bike before i'm sure i'll think that anything is pretty sick reh! Especially considering i still think that the grip shifters on my 10 year old apollo mountain bike are pretty cool :good:

Shopping around is the best idea first. I have a sora trainer - came with alloy frame, carbon forks and carbon seat post for just over $600 brand new and a friends just got one off ebay for $300 as new - only prob is it is 8 speed but that is nothing really and I use mine as a trainer anyway

as you say not having a road bike a good step, get used to the bike, the gears etc and will climb all the hills and keep up on the longer rides no problems - a more expensive bike just might be a bit more comfortable in the longer ridea (over 100km) and shift a little cleaner - but in your circumstance think that level of bike should do the trick

#7 wobbly man

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 10:37 AM

I agree with Goughy. A second hand OCR3 (or equivalent brand) will get you heaps of bang for your buck, particularly if you are on a tight budget. Just check it over thoroughly before purchasing.

Don't forget to save a few pennies for the accessories - helmet, shoes, gloves, bidons etc

#8 miners

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 08:55 PM

would probably add that it'd be worth to at least get the 105 groupset if you can. It's lifespan is better than Tiagra, the quality is much better and it holds a lot more cafe cred :good: Assuming you take to cycling (how could you not?), then this will ensure some longevity to the bike

Giant is the obvious choice for quality for money down. But others that might fit in the budget would be Avanti, EMC2, Azzuri, and perhaps some of the Meridas, or Felts would also be affordable. Most of the frames are much of a muchness. Just make sure you get a frame that fits you well - not the last model on the floor that the shop-owner says is 'just right' for you before even measuring you up. And then your second objective would be to aim for the best componentry you can buy. As said, try to get the budget to stretch to 105.

#9 Goughy

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 06:13 AM

 miners, on Mar 11 2009, 08:55 PM, said:

and it holds a lot more cafe cred :good:

OT'ish, but I loved my first forays into the cafe crowd! Had just started riding and was on my 1988 fluro yellow and purple apollo with downtube shifters and was way too big a frame for me (when bought the guy in the shop said off the floor would fit me). Was weariing knicks from rebel sport, a tee shirt, my helmet from 1988, and mountain bike shoes which I'd borrowed! I was a picture.... like after Mr Bean got to it ;)

#10 BattleOn

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 10:36 AM

Goughy.....very funny post!

I agree with Miners about the 105 groupset. I looked at alot of different bikes before I purchased my Malvern Star 'Oppy' with 105 groupset. I also bought the proper bike shoes which clip into the pedals, a great investment. A good quality helmet could save your life one day, so leave some money aside for a decent bike helmet.

Enjoy your riding!

#11 Lost Boy

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 04:17 PM

Hi Mate.
I disagree with everyone who has recommended stretching to the 105 gruppo. Tiagra or even Sora level stuff will last several years with no worries at all especially if you keep the bike serviced and care for it. Don't worry about getting full shimano stuff either, some bikes will come with shimano deraileurs and shifters but will use cranks and brakes by other manufacturers to keep costs down. These components are generally on par with the shimano stuff anyways. The main advantage to going for 105 level stuff and better is that 105 does not use any steel or iron in its construction at all, so it is lighter, more durable and often more rigid than cheaper stuff. 105 is also 10 speed (at the back) as opposed to 9 on the cheaper stuff so you get 2 more gears, not exactly an earth shattering difference for a beginner. Some 2200/sora/tiagra stuff will come with 3 front chainrings to compensate for this but they add weight and give you some useless very low gears that anyone with more than noodles for legs will never need. A low end bike will still last you a number of years with good care and if you decide you want to upgrade later on then you will be able to do so after getting some experience and deciding exactly what you want and need.
Roughly $700 will get you a brand spanking new low end bike from brands like Avanti. There are some factors which I consider to be more important than groupsets too. Try and get carbon forks and seatpost if you can afford it because this will make the bike considerably more comfortable to ride. The comfort is more important than the weight saving. Carbon has a vibration damping effect so that you will not experience the vibrations from the road as much if you have carbon between you and road. Forks and seatposts are the most affordable ways of achieving this. Avoiding the physical and mental fatigue that this vibration causes will make your rides more pleasant and more importantly, faster. Also, spend that little bit extra and install proper pedals and get a pair of bike shoes. Wearing bike shoes can enable you to generate up to %70 more power through the cranks than not wearing bike shoes, this is because you are able to pull up as well as push down. Also invest in some comfy gear. These small things will help you MUCH more than the tiny difference you get from going for a higher end groupset.
The SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR is to get a bike that fits you! so go to a reputable dealer and try on your selected bike to be sure that it fits. If you are buying second hand, which can be a great option, make sure you know for certain that the bike you are buying is going to fit you.
Best of luck.

Edited by Lost Boy, 12 March 2009 - 04:23 PM.


#12 hawkesi

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 04:24 PM

thanks for the advice lost boy. I do think that a cheaper gearset might be the way to go. I can't see myself getting competitive with cycling so i think that tiagra or sora would do the trick.

Having said that though, i've just seen an ad for a cell team bike, alloy frame carbon forks with 105 groupset for $1399. Sounds like a pretty fair deal. So far i've had to go up to around $1800 to find anything with 105's.

Another question though, these different shimano group sets have different shifter types too don't they? The tiagra seems to work the same as 105 and then the sora and 2200 looks to shift a different way. What benefit is there from the different types? Just ease of use?

Edited by hawkesi, 12 March 2009 - 04:26 PM.


#13 Goughy

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 04:43 PM

I don't know if there is any benefit as such in the different shifting! I have sora and it's easy to shift down with the thumb click. But most mid to high end gear uses the finger downshift under the brake lever, so there must be a reason for it.

I think my mate is able to make gear changes when riding on the drops with his ultegra stuff. If I'm on the drops on my bike with the sora stuff I can't downshift; I have to move my hands to the hoods to do so.

#14 Lost Boy

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 06:03 PM

 Goughy, on Mar 12 2009, 05:43 PM, said:

I think my mate is able to make gear changes when riding on the drops with his ultegra stuff. If I'm on the drops on my bike with the sora stuff I can't downshift; I have to move my hands to the hoods to do so.
Yeah that seems to be about it, you will need to slightly change position when on the drops in order to change down with sora shifters. I am sure it's not big deal and I imagine you will get used to whatever you get. This might cost you fractions of seconds in competition but on a beginner bike who cares?

That Cell bike sounds decent value but remember to factor in the cost of riding gear including shoes and pedals. You will also probably want a cheap speed and distance computer, with or without cadence, a cheap underseat toolkit and bag, a pump and a couple of spare tubes to take with you on a ride. Depending on when you ride you may or may not also want a little light on the back and/or front. None of these things are terribly expensive but they can add up and are all pretty important so don't break the bank on the bike only to run out of cash and not get shoes. Also do not go without the toolkit and bag, theyre cheap and wil keep you out of trouble if you get a flat or similar on a ride.

Edited by Lost Boy, 12 March 2009 - 06:08 PM.


#15 wozzam

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 06:29 PM

last year i was coming in the top 3 in the local A grade races riding on a felt alloy frame with tiagra componentry against guys on cervelo,s and tiagra never missed a beat although i had a dura ace chain and cable set which i believe makes a huge difference!!!

#16 wombatoutofhell

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Posted 13 March 2009 - 06:48 AM

my bike is 25 years old-I bought it off ebay for $56 a couple of years ago. Works fine. You lot are just spoiled with indexed gears and fancy shifters. Cycling shoes and cleats? they scare me-I have old fashioned toe clips. I might buy a special shoe-dunlop volleys would work fine I reckon.

#17 shotis

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Posted 13 March 2009 - 03:38 PM

Hawkesi,
10 speed gear sets are the here and now. 9 speed is superseeded technology and as such you are likely to find it becoming obsolete over the next few years. If you are not going to use the bike competitively my opinion is that you opt for the 10 speed stuff and suffer the inital extra over expense for a number of reasons.

-If you are not racing on this kit the bike will last longer, and
-You will more than likely not fall prey to the "cafe cred" sock length trend setters and therefore fall victim to peer pressure to upgrade to something fancy and new every other year.
-As i said 10 speed is "now" technology for shimano and will be serviced via spare parts well into the future. The reliability issue or 9 versus 10 is also important, 10 wins hands down at the level you are talking.
-Future up-grades of 9 speed are not possible unless you can find 9 speed 105 stuff somewhere.
- As with all major purchases, be it a car or house or bike, spend more than you are comfortable with initially and you will be a happy cyclist for a long time into the future.

Shot'is

#18 hawkesi

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 07:06 AM

OK, so i've been doing my homework and shopping around. It has now come down to probably 2 or 3 bikes. I've found a Merida Road Race 905 with full ultegra for under $2000. That sounds like a pretty good deal to me. Other choice is an Orbea Udana which is a mix of 105 and ultegra. I may even be able to stretch the budget to the Orbea Dauphine which is full ultegra.

I'm told the orbea is a much better frame and if i went for the udana i could upgrade components later. But i'd say if i'm ever upgrading it would also likely include a full carbon frame.

So whats do we think people? Should i go the Merida or just hang it and go for the Orbea's. The Orbea's are going to come in just under $2000 also.

Oh, also only thing with the merida is that it is not ultegra SL which is apparently the new model or something? Should i be worried about that?

Hawkesi

#19 guinness

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 09:33 AM

 hawkesi, on Mar 23 2009, 07:06 AM, said:

OK, so i've been doing my homework and shopping around. It has now come down to probably 2 or 3 bikes. I've found a Merida Road Race 905 with full ultegra for under $2000. That sounds like a pretty good deal to me. Other choice is an Orbea Udana which is a mix of 105 and ultegra. I may even be able to stretch the budget to the Orbea Dauphine which is full ultegra.

I'm told the orbea is a much better frame and if i went for the udana i could upgrade components later. But i'd say if i'm ever upgrading it would also likely include a full carbon frame.

So whats do we think people? Should i go the Merida or just hang it and go for the Orbea's. The Orbea's are going to come in just under $2000 also.

Oh, also only thing with the merida is that it is not ultegra SL which is apparently the new model or something? Should i be worried about that?

Hawkesi

they're both great bikes.
which is more comfortable for you - buy that one.
i believe ultegra sl is a little lighter than ultegra - but realisticly you'd never notice. i've heard some people on forums express concern over the durability of sl, and that the grey finish scratches easily - i have no first hand experience with it though.

i doubt you can go wrong with either bike though - i'm jealous

#20 Steely

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 02:39 PM

Hawkesi

sounds like you are on the right track...get the best components you can buy...the end.
you will notice zero diff between ultegra and SL...

I shopped around last year for the boss ( wife :good: ) and settled on the Cell team 105 for $1199 ...nearly 3000km and all perfect !!

hope you enjoy your foray into cycling.

***Kandingo ( computer signed in by Steely !!!)

Edited by Steely, 23 March 2009 - 02:40 PM.


#21 StellaBella

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 03:46 PM

I reckon i'm going to get booed for even asking this but it has to be done...

Is this a hunk of excrement?

Specs mean nothing to me so I can't tell.... but I guess I'd have to be suspicious based solely on price!

#22 wombatoutofhell

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 04:15 PM

I wouldn't touch it. Just having a quick look I'd put it at about the level that Kmart bikes are. The gears are very old tech and the weight is more than my 25 year old steel framed bike. Just looking at the frame I'd guess it's a size small for you as well-you're fairly tall and that bike's not. I'm no expert though-someone else might feel different.

#23 JustinS007

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 04:46 PM

 Steely, on Mar 23 2009, 03:39 PM, said:

.... and settled on the Cell team 105 for $1199 ...nearly 3000km and all perfect !!
Yep. If I had my time again it would be the Cell team bike. Very well priced for what you get.

Also, 105 gear is AMPLY good enough, especially for a new cyclist. Ultegra, Ultegra SL and Dura Ace are really never necessary unless you are a serious club racer (and I'd argue 'A' Grade) or better. Or if you have plenty of spare cash and just want to look the 'goods'. If you're filthy rich or plan to be competitive then go for the Ultegra or better.

For the 'average' fit cyclist riding up to 300 or so km per week I think 105 gear is perfect. It's durable, shifts cleanly and is far cheaper to replace chains and cassettes as they wear out. And if you are doing enough km to even justify 105 gear then they will wear out!

If you plan only to do up to 100k per week then tiagra is probably OK and even Sora gear if you're fixed on Shimano. Sora shifting is a bit clunky, needs to be 'tweaked' frequently and the gear levers can't be operated from the drops (unless you have 10cm long thumbs), but would do if you're not planning to ride much. Anything lower such as Shimano 2200 should be avoided like the plague unless you're only going to use the bike to do the odd short ride of maybe up to 20 or 30k and possibly for commuting.

Just MHO.

J.

#24 StellaBella

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 04:52 PM

 wombatoutofhell, on Mar 23 2009, 04:15 PM, said:

I wouldn't touch it. Just having a quick look I'd put it at about the level that Kmart bikes are. The gears are very old tech and the weight is more than my 25 year old steel framed bike. Just looking at the frame I'd guess it's a size small for you as well-you're fairly tall and that bike's not. I'm no expert though-someone else might feel different.


That's what I suspected...
In terms of size... I wasn't looking at this one for me specifically - figured they sell a lot of these and probably in different sizes.
Ah well... finances aren't really being accommodating for new toys just now anyway!

#25 JustinS007

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 04:52 PM

 StellaBella, on Mar 23 2009, 04:46 PM, said:

I reckon i'm going to get booed for even asking this but it has to be done...
Everything at every price point has it's place. The biggest downfall of that bike is its weight. 13/15kg is VERY heavy for any road bike.

However, if you just plan on using it twice a week for a hard 10km spin and pace isn't your thing, or twice a week riding to work then you could do worse. Why spend even $1000 on a bike that's going to do 500km a year (unless you're loaded)? The fact that the components on that bike are all steel possibly suggests that it wll be durable if they have come out of the factory 'fault free'. Same goes for the frame. And if you have a very tight budget and can't afford anything else but want to buy something now then why not? After a year or so you might get the bug, up the km's and then save for something better. Always a preferable option to spending a fortune (pick you own definition of that) finding out that riding's not for you and then realising that even in 'as new' condition a pushbike will depreciate at least 50% in 12 months!

#26 StellaBella

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 05:03 PM

 JustinS007, on Mar 23 2009, 04:52 PM, said:

Everything at every price point has it's place. The biggest downfall of that bike is its weight. 13/15kg is VERY heavy for any road bike.

However, if you just plan on using it twice a week for a hard 10km spin and pace isn't your thing, or twice a week riding to work then you could do worse. Why spend even $1000 on a bike that's going to do 500km a year (unless you're loaded)? The fact that the components on that bike are all steel possibly suggests that it wll be durable if they have come out of the factory 'fault free'. Same goes for the frame. And if you have a very tight budget and can't afford anything else but want to buy something now then why not? After a year or so you might get the bug, up the km's and then save for something better. Always a preferable option to spending a fortune (pick you own definition of that) finding out that riding's not for you and then realising that even in 'as new' condition a pushbike will depreciate at least 50% in 12 months!

Thanks Justin

I have a Trek 7000 Hybrid that I commute to and from work on (not far - 13km round trip!) and do the odd "long" ride on.

I love riding and technically I probably don't need a road bike as such BUT I'd like to get into the tri thing eventually and quite frankly I'm sick of every man and his lycra clad dog flying past me even when I'm madly pedalling at 30kph (which is fast for me!).

Think I'll be looking at at least $650 minimum... a tempting way to spend my Kevin Rudd cash... but I have credit card debt coming out the wazoo....

Ok enough on crap ebay bikes... if it looks to good to be true it usually is!

#27 Runaway Lass

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 06:08 PM

How tall are you ?, have a spare azzuri road bike, tiagra shimano gears etc needs a bit of work, new chain, seat and cleats, but is more so for a 5 foot 3 person....

#28 StellaBella

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 08:34 PM

 Runaway Lass, on Mar 23 2009, 07:08 PM, said:

How tall are you ?, have a spare azzuri road bike, tiagra shimano gears etc needs a bit of work, new chain, seat and cleats, but is more so for a 5 foot 3 person....

Aw that's sweet... I'm 5'8!

#29 wombatoutofhell

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 08:55 PM

For similar money (maybe a bit more) you could buy a second hand bike on ebay thats done very little work. People buy them with the best of intentions and then let them sit getting covered in dust when they lost interest. As Justin said that bike would be fine for short rides but I'd prefer a second hand bike from a reputable company with better quality components than an el cheapo new bike. Personally I wouldn't get anything less than Tiagra componants as I dont like the shifters on Sora, but I'd rather 105. Having said that even the gears on the cheap ebay bike are more advanced than mine-mine aren't even indexed-i have to change by feel.

#30 TynoMite

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 10:22 PM

 wombatoutofhell, on Mar 23 2009, 08:55 PM, said:

Personally I wouldn't get anything less than Tiagra componants as I dont like the shifters on Sora, but I'd rather 105.
Not directed at WOOH, but I just don't understand the hate for sora shifting.
It's what I'm running on my Orbea (Enol - 2008)
(Incidentally, I just don't like the look of the 2009 Enol)
I've had it back to the shop twice in 12 months to get the indexing fixed up, mainly because I don't have the patience to do it myself.
It's gotten me round a few thousand ks without a major problem.
The only issue I ever have is going from the big chain ring to the small if I'm in the wrong cog at the back.
Shifting is easy.
Who needs to shift when you're on the drops anyway?????
Sit on the hoods if you wanna shift.

#31 wombatoutofhell

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 11:02 PM

i guess the sora shifting is better than my bike which has levers on the headstem.
It should be said I have never ridden a bike with sora shifters. nor have i ridden one with tiagra, 105 or ultegra. Not even 2200. in fact I've never ridden a road bike with indexed gears. but from sitting on bikes in the shops and playing a bit ( i spent alot of time doing this before i decided i couldn't justify a new bike) the sora just felt unnatural to me. I expect they work fine and don't cause too many hassles, but I'd try and aim higher myself. Also if I wanted to ride on the hoods I'd get a flat bar roadie which are cheaper-but i ride alot on the drops and I change gear from there.
I've also never ridden an alloy or carbon framed bike. My current bike is the first one i've owned with alloy rims!

#32 StellaBella

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 10:11 AM

 TynoMite, on Mar 23 2009, 10:22 PM, said:

Shifting is easy.
Who needs to shift when you're on the drops anyway?????
Sit on the hoods if you wanna shift.

You know what... I have no f**king idea what the hell you are talking about - what language is that?!
Drops? hood? Huh?!
I'm going to assume shifting is changing gears!
Methinks I have a lot more to learn...

#33 Muzman

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 01:36 PM

 StellaBella, on Mar 24 2009, 11:11 AM, said:

You know what... I have no f**king idea what the hell you are talking about - what language is that?!
Drops? hood? Huh?!
I'm going to assume shifting is changing gears!
Methinks I have a lot more to learn...
Haha!

The hoods are the big rubbery things that cover your brake mechanisms and are probably the most comfortable place to put your hands (for most riders!). From there you can ster effectively, change gears (shift) easily, and reach the brake handles with ease.

The 'drops' are the curved part below where you usually go to sprint or work hard out of the saddle ( but not climb).

The other position is the 'flat' on top of the bars where you don't have access to either brake or gear levers.

It's good to have more than one position to put your hands so they don't get numb or sore, but everyone has a favourite position.

Hope this clears it up a bit for you, SB.

Muz

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 08:50 PM

 Muzman, on Mar 24 2009, 01:36 PM, said:

but everyone has a favourite position. ;)

You can do that on a bike?! :good:

Hope this clears it up a bit for you, SB.

Thanks Muz... guess it will all make sense once I actually have one in front of me


#35 hawkesi

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 07:20 AM

Well, the deal is done. I'm picking up my Orbea Udana tomorrow night. Was down to the orbea and a Scott Speedster S20. Orbea was slightly more expensive but i think it is worth it considering there is a lifetime warranty on the frame. The Scott had a 12 month warranty and they have had a few with cracked frames out of the box lately. Didn't fill me with confidence so the choice was easy.

Very pumped! Now for the never ending list of accessories that comes with cycling. Think I'd better start packing shelves at Woolies at night to pay for this new "hobby".

#36 Muzman

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 10:23 AM

 hawkesi, on Apr 1 2009, 07:20 AM, said:

The Scott had a 12 month warranty and they have had a few with cracked frames out of the box lately. Didn't fill me with confidence so the choice was easy.
Yes, my friend got a Scott for her birthday and discovered a crack last week.

Luckily it was well within the 12 months warranty, and it looks like they may replace with a full carbon job. Score!

Worth watching for, but otherwise Scott turn out a very nice entry-level bike.

Muz

#37 hawkesi

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 06:53 AM

Picked up the bike yesterday arvo. It looks awesome. Excellent service from Peter Bundy at Riverwood. Set it up beautifully with a couple of bottles and cages, mini pump and repair kit all ready to go.

Only problem; as soon as i threw the shoes and helmet on and walked out the front door it bucketed down! D'oh! So still no action.

Did get to spend some quality time with the bike though trying to pump the tyres back up with the mini pump after accidentally letting all the air out. Must get floor pump!

#38 StellaBella

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 05:06 PM

I've waded into this discussion before... but I'm back.
Just wondering what ppl though of the new Cell Bike...
Ppl keep talking about group sets but apart form saying it's a Shimano it doesn't specify which one so not sure what that means!

Now, if they're selling the 2010 model for $649 what is the liklihood the 2009 model wld be any cheaper?

Do we think that this would be far superior and worth spending an extra $250 on?

Getting away from the Cell thing again (though as far as I can work out I'd be hard pressed to get a cheap but reliable entry level bike to use for tri and stuff) I'm looking at bikeexchange and wonder if something like this would be better value

Any idea what frame size a 173cm tall person wld need?

#39 blkbox

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 06:51 PM

Have a look here for other options.

With regard to group sets Shimano I would suggest to look at least at the 105 or the Ultegra series - you can go lower in the price bracket but you do get what you pay for.

Selecting a bike is a very individual thing, but there are a few basic questions you need to ask yourself, which will help you narrow the selection down: -

1. Frame - do you want carbon, hybrid or alloy? Is the weight of the bike really that important to you at this stage?
2. Group sets - decide how much you are prepared to spend and then pick a group set such as the 105 or Ultegra. This will help you then compare the price of the options available to you having as few variable as possible
3. Main use - cross training, short rides, long rides (above 70K) - this will also assist with deciding the best frame for you

Frame sizes can vary from brand to brand - it's best to go and have the biked "fitted" so you feel as if the bike was made for you, rather than you trying to fit the bike you like because of the fancy paint job.

If money is no objective then you must get one of these

#40 guinness

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 11:51 PM

 StellaBella, on Sep 27 2009, 05:06 PM, said:

I've waded into this discussion before... but I'm back.
Just wondering what ppl though of the new Cell Bike...
Ppl keep talking about group sets but apart form saying it's a Shimano it doesn't specify which one so not sure what that means!

Now, if they're selling the 2010 model for $649 what is the liklihood the 2009 model wld be any cheaper?

Do we think that this would be far superior and worth spending an extra $250 on?

Getting away from the Cell thing again (though as far as I can work out I'd be hard pressed to get a cheap but reliable entry level bike to use for tri and stuff) I'm looking at bikeexchange and wonder if something like this would be better value

Any idea what frame size a 173cm tall person wld need?

Hi SB,

the bike on bikeexchange has shimano s2200 same as the cheaper cell bike - both are VERY entry level.
if you can possibly scrape together enough to get the second cell bike with sora it will give more reliable gear changes and last longer.
Sora now has integrated brake levers/gear changers which is a nice step up, and it's a double front cog which will give more reliable gear changes - and perth is FLAT so you wouldnt get much benefit from the lower geared triple cog on the s2200 anyway.
Size wise if you're going to go with cell (and they do seem good value) I'd email them with your measurements see http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?P...LCULATOR_INTRO and ask them which size they recommend.

Oh and you'll also need to budget for shoes and pedals (and factor in a clipless pedal stack - we all have at least one initially).

Edited by guinness, 27 September 2009 - 11:54 PM.


#41 SpartaJen

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 06:16 AM

 blkbox, on Sep 27 2009, 06:51 PM, said:

Frame sizes can vary from brand to brand - it's best to go and have the biked "fitted" so you feel as if the bike was made for you, rather than you trying to fit the bike you like because of the fancy paint job.
I would also have a look at women's specific bikes. Unfortunately most of them have pink on them :o but they are specifically designed for women's bodys - ie women tend to have long legs but a shorter torso than men.

#42 blkbox

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 09:06 AM

 Jen_runs, on Sep 28 2009, 06:16 AM, said:

I would also have a look at women's specific bikes. Unfortunately most of them have pink on them :D but they are specifically designed for women's bodys - ie women tend to have long legs but a shorter torso than men.

These guys make some good specific women's bike - if you don't mind pink :o

#43 thomo

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 12:01 PM

 guinness, on Sep 27 2009, 11:51 PM, said:

Hi SB,
and perth is FLAT so you wouldnt get much benefit from the lower geared triple cog on the s2200 anyway.

Stella has moved and where she currently lives wouldn't be considered flat.

However I agree that a double front chain ring is the go and at least sora and if can go the extra dollars Shimano 105.

#44 guinness

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 08:44 PM

 blkbox, on Sep 28 2009, 10:06 AM, said:

These guys make some good specific women's bike - if you don't mind pink :o

or these
http://www.sarahulme.../fit-for-women/

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 07:26 AM

I bought a cell flat-bar hybrid bike (X2) in December last year with a Shimano Deore gear set (27) and disc brakes (which I love). I use it it to ride to work and cruise around with the family.

I'm looking to get an entry level road bike and was looking at this one from Cell. It has a 9 speed Tiagra group set and importantly, is in my favourite colour.

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 08:39 PM

 Jen_runs, on Sep 28 2009, 06:16 AM, said:

I would also have a look at women's specific bikes. Unfortunately most of them have pink on them :D but they are specifically designed for women's bodys - ie women tend to have long legs but a shorter torso than men.


 blkbox, on Sep 28 2009, 09:06 AM, said:

These guys make some good specific women's bike - if you don't mind pink :o

 guinness, on Sep 28 2009, 08:44 PM, said:


I like pink!
I can't afford any of these though...budgetary constraints are tight!

 thomo, on Sep 28 2009, 12:01 PM, said:

Stella has moved and where she currently lives wouldn't be considered flat.

However I agree that a double front chain ring is the go and at least sora and if can go the extra dollars Shimano 105.

None of Sydney is flat!!!
I don't even know what a double from chain ring is...lol!

#47 redbackrun

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 10:35 PM

on a lighter note you can ride as well as post to CR. :o
[attachment=4923:statbike.jpg]

#48 slowboat

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Posted 30 September 2009 - 09:12 AM

You may want to look at the Giant range 2009 models as they are running out the door. I just ordered a new Giant Defy 3 but when I went to collect it they had sold my bike to someone else. They then upgraded mr to a Giant Defy 2 for no extra cost. Great entry level bike ont over the top in price, nine speed with carbon forks and seat post, Dura ace shifters and is light. Only cost me $799 for the Defy 3 but the Defy 2 was on sale foe $1100 so well within your budget.

Cheers SB.

#49 Also Ran

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Posted 30 September 2009 - 10:12 AM

I was at the bike shop recently picking up my old MTB after a service when I got to discussing my flat (mostly bike path) 33km commute with the nice man. One thing led to another & he showed me a Giant CRX City flat bar road bike which he said would be perfect for the commute.

It's got carbon forks & seat post for comfort, disc brakes, can be set up for a pannier rack and most interestingly an 8 speed internal hub. Price $999.

I know nothing about internal hubs except that they look really cool. What do you think of this bike, that price and internal hubs in general?

I'm sure 8 gears is enough for the flat commute, but do you reckon I'll be looking for more gears if I get into hillier long rides on weekends?

Oh I also know nothing about cleats. How much $ should you allow for a decent, reliable shoe & peddle set up?

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Posted 30 September 2009 - 11:43 AM

not sure if this is against the rules...so sorry if i'm crossing a boundary...

i'm looking to offload my roadbike if anyone is interested. i upgraded a couple of months back..

it's an azzurri torino....full shimano tiagra groupset.

it's a large frame (which is the main reason i upgraded...it's too big for me. i'm 169cm if that helps)

http://www.azzurribikes.com/product_03.php...=002&psn=19

2009 model, i've had it for under a year, recent 'check up' at my lbs gives it the all clear. currently retailing for $1599...i'm after $950.

pm me if interested