Spin Bike Set Up
Started by zandrsmum, Sep 11 2009 09:02 PM
11 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 11 September 2009 - 09:02 PM
Hi there, does anyone have a guide they could offer for setting up a spin bike? I have been having ITB problems primarily evident in the hip area for about 8 months. For the past month I have really backed off using my spin bike to concentrate on running and the hip pain has almost gone even though I have been increasing distance and intesity with the running. The basic formula I have been using is seat at hip bone height, knee straight but not locked when peddle down, bar elbow to fingertip from front of seat. I know it is hard when you can't see but any ideas on why I could be having problems would be appreciated. I have been told by some that it is along as you are comfortable and I am when I am on it but I think something is not quite right. Thanks in advance for any advice, K
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#2
Posted 11 September 2009 - 09:35 PM
everything you've said sounds right to me. in addition, when your feet are at 3 & 9 o'clock, the front foot should be directly below the front knee. I think however there should be a slight bend in the knee when the foot is at 6 o'clock. If the leg is straight, then you might actually be dipping the pelvis to the side as you rotate the pedals, which would probably not be a good thing for ITB.
#3
Posted 11 September 2009 - 10:06 PM
i would probably drop the seat a little to allow your knee some bend when at the 6 oclock position as MC stated. maybe set up the bike where you can see yourself in a wondown or mirror, and look at your hip, if its rocking or rising and falling then your seat is too high.
Are you using cleats? if so maybe think about moving the cleats to the most backward positon on the shoe. having the ball of the foot over the spindle of the pedal is now "old school", alos point the toe in just ever so slightly.
Are you using cleats? if so maybe think about moving the cleats to the most backward positon on the shoe. having the ball of the foot over the spindle of the pedal is now "old school", alos point the toe in just ever so slightly.
#4
Posted 12 September 2009 - 08:40 AM
Does the seat slide backwards & forwards?
If it is too far back you will be putting the hips and knees into a bit of a compromised position.
If it is too far back you will be putting the hips and knees into a bit of a compromised position.
#5
Posted 12 September 2009 - 05:20 PM
Thanks, I love how you can ask any question here and people will help. I will check all points, the seat moves front and back up and down, I don't use cleats just the straps around the toes so rather infelxible there but I do have cleats so I'll have a look and see if they fit on. Thanks again, K
#6
Posted 13 September 2009 - 10:23 AM
Hi
The proper leg extension for indoor cycling is approximately fifteen to thirty-five degrees short of fully extended.
Saddle forward / backward adjustment is for changing the position relative to the pedals, not relative to the handlebars. To check for proper leg position, sit comfortably in the saddle without pedaling. Observe the forward leg: An imaginary line dropped from the bottom of the patella (kneecap) should intersect the pedal axle (and the ball of the foot). If this line drops behind the pedal axle, the saddle should be moved forward. If the imaginary line drops in front of the pedal axle, the saddle should be moved backward.
Note: adjusting the saddle forward effectively lowers the saddle, while adjusting the saddle backward effectively raises the saddle.
Once the biomechanically appropriate saddle position is found, never move more than one notch in any direction away from that position.
Handlebars should be as low as is comfortable to emphasize proper technique and posture in all positions except standing tall. If the bars are too high, the abs can not be effectively utilized and worked while riding.
do not use "under-handed" hand positions. Palms should never be face-up or face-out while on the bars. Also, wrists should remain supple and without much flexion.
The handlebars are for balance, not to be leaned on/against
The pedals should be under the balls of the feet not under the toes feet square to the pedals not pointed to the ground
one of the things that you can try is to use a 4 x 2 6 week program increase your speed or distance for 4 weeks and stay at that level for 2 weeks to let your body adapt to that level if you feel tired or sore at anytime cut the everything in half and start again
All the best
Lou
The proper leg extension for indoor cycling is approximately fifteen to thirty-five degrees short of fully extended.
Saddle forward / backward adjustment is for changing the position relative to the pedals, not relative to the handlebars. To check for proper leg position, sit comfortably in the saddle without pedaling. Observe the forward leg: An imaginary line dropped from the bottom of the patella (kneecap) should intersect the pedal axle (and the ball of the foot). If this line drops behind the pedal axle, the saddle should be moved forward. If the imaginary line drops in front of the pedal axle, the saddle should be moved backward.
Note: adjusting the saddle forward effectively lowers the saddle, while adjusting the saddle backward effectively raises the saddle.
Once the biomechanically appropriate saddle position is found, never move more than one notch in any direction away from that position.
Handlebars should be as low as is comfortable to emphasize proper technique and posture in all positions except standing tall. If the bars are too high, the abs can not be effectively utilized and worked while riding.
do not use "under-handed" hand positions. Palms should never be face-up or face-out while on the bars. Also, wrists should remain supple and without much flexion.
The handlebars are for balance, not to be leaned on/against
The pedals should be under the balls of the feet not under the toes feet square to the pedals not pointed to the ground
one of the things that you can try is to use a 4 x 2 6 week program increase your speed or distance for 4 weeks and stay at that level for 2 weeks to let your body adapt to that level if you feel tired or sore at anytime cut the everything in half and start again
All the best
Lou
#7
Posted 13 September 2009 - 10:40 AM
Lou, thank you for taking the time to reply in such depth. I will get my hubby out with me to check and adjust all points. Could you explain further the program you mentioned. Currently I am doing 2 x 45 min sessions a week which I maust say are pretty random but include fast sprints, high resistace as well as just what I call steady pace/medium resistace. As you can tell riding is not my first dicipline!
So when you say 4 x 2 6 week program, what would a good start point be? My goals are cross training for half mara and a few sprint distance tri's during the summer, just for fun and a change of focus. Thanks, K
So when you say 4 x 2 6 week program, what would a good start point be? My goals are cross training for half mara and a few sprint distance tri's during the summer, just for fun and a change of focus. Thanks, K
#8
Posted 13 September 2009 - 10:48 AM
If you wanna try and set it up try this site.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?P...ALCULATOR_INTRO
It's a bike set up, but might help.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?P...ALCULATOR_INTRO
It's a bike set up, but might help.
#9
Posted 15 December 2009 - 04:31 PM
Probably too random to answer, hence why I'm not starting a new thread:
But for the average person, how many KM's do you estimate would be covered in a 45min spin class?
I ask because I am yet to ride a 'real' bike, but have just borrowed one and hope to rectify that soon
Cheers
RS
But for the average person, how many KM's do you estimate would be covered in a 45min spin class?
I ask because I am yet to ride a 'real' bike, but have just borrowed one and hope to rectify that soon
Cheers
RS
#10
Posted 15 December 2009 - 05:18 PM
A spin instructor quoted me approximately 25Km in a 45 min spin class.
No idea what the climb would be though, we never seem to have a long coasting descent.
No idea what the climb would be though, we never seem to have a long coasting descent.
#11
Posted 15 December 2009 - 06:47 PM
Goughy, on Sep 13 2009, 12:48 AM, said:
If you wanna try and set it up try this site.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?P...ALCULATOR_INTRO
It's a bike set up, but might help.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?P...ALCULATOR_INTRO
It's a bike set up, but might help.
I wound up buying a54cm frame and it's spot on right.
#12
Posted 15 December 2009 - 07:45 PM
Many thanks Brewer, at least it's a number I can roll around in my head/training diary until I get more accurate with an actual bike.
Cheers
RS
Cheers
RS















